gems, beryl, emerald, history of gemology, ancient gems, glyptic, Rome, Greece, Egypt, Arabic Mineralogy

Cassius-Duranton traces the changing place of emerald in Western history, examining the gemstone through the interrelated perspectives of history, culture, symbolism, and the decorative arts. The essay follows emerald from the ancient Mediterranean world through the Middle Ages and Renaissance into the modern era, considering the beliefs, virtues, and symbolic associations attached to its distinctive green color. It discusses the transformation of the European emerald trade following contact with the Americas and the arrival of Colombian stones, which greatly expanded the availability of exceptionally fine material. Emeralds are considered in relation to royalty, aristocratic display, religious and secular jewelry, changing fashions, and evolving ideas of luxury and beauty. Through historical sources, works of art, and surviving jewels, the essay demonstrates how emerald acquired multiple and sometimes changing meanings in Western culture, including associations with nature, renewal, love, hope, status, and power, while remaining one of the most prestigious colored gemstones in European jewelry.