gems, Afghanistan, Panjshir Valley, beryl, emerald

Exploring Afghanistan in 2021 has become increasingly difficult. Just read the State Department guidelines before departure: “Do not travel to Afghanistan due to COVID-19, crime, terrorism, civil unrest, kidnapping, and armed conflict.” And now we have withdrawn. At the time of this travel, the advice included: “ON APRIL 27, 2021, THE DEPARTMENT ORDERED THE DEPARTURE FROM U.S. EMBASSY KABUL OF U.S. GOVERNMENT EMPLOYEES WHOSE FUNCTIONS CAN BE PERFORMED ELSEWHERE. TRAVEL TO ALL AREAS OF AFGHANISTAN IS UNSAFE… TERRORIST AND INSURGENT GROUPS CONTINUE PLANNING AND EXECUTING ATTACKS IN AFGHANISTAN… AT LOCATIONS FREQUENTED BY U.S. CITIZENS AND OTHER FOREIGN NATIONALS. THE U.S. EMBASSY’S ABILITY TO PROVIDE ROUTINE AND EMERGENCY SERVICES TO U.S. CITIZENS IN AFGHANISTAN IS SEVERELY LIMITED, PARTICULARLY OUTSIDE OF KABUL.” I know you’re asking yourselves why anyone would go to Afghanistan. For me, it’s an affection for the people of Afghanistan. I’ve been traveling there and exploring the remote mines for 50 years and have a strong attachment to the gem mining industry. I have a three-year contract with USAID/DAI “to advance the gemstone industry of Afghanistan and increase its exports of gemstones.” However, like scenes from a James Bond movie, I was met at the Kabul airport by armed guards and driven in an armored vehicle to a fortified compound where I stayed and worked for two weeks. If I was to go rogue and head to the emerald mines in the Hindu Kush Mountains, it had to be unofficial and on my own. Doing so was a sleight of hand transition. Upon my departure from the heavily guarded compound, I was escorted by guards in an armored vehicle back to the Kabul airport. Inside the airport my USAID/DAI mission was completed, and we said our “goodbyes.” Moments after they left, an Afghan friend drove up in his dusty vehicle, and we were off to the Hindu Kush Mountains.