gems, color science, color theory, art, anthropology, Rome, ancient color terms, Pliny the Elder, Gemstones, Colours, Gender, Roman Tradition

Pliny the Elder’s Natural History, Book 37 offers unique insights into the attitude towards precious stones in early Imperial Rome. From a thorough analysis of Pliny’s discussion emerges a complex ‘semantic system’ according to which some gemstones were preferentially meant for specific customers (women vs men) and uses (jewellery or signets), mainly on the basis of their colours and their suitability for engraving. According to ancient science, as living and gendered beings themselves, the sexual dimorphism of gems mirrored that of human beings: pale and watery nuances were suitable for women, while fiery colours reflected the intimate nature of men. The semantics of gemstones are also rooted in the chromatic symbolism of ancient Rome. The green of the emerald pointed to exoticism, otherness, and womanhood, while the red, white, and black striped sardonyx featured the principal colours of Roman tradition. Other gems, like the sarda-carnelian, were still linked in Pliny’s time with the illustrious Greek past. Further research into material and literary sources, from Pliny to other Roman authors, will provide fresh insights into a class of materials usually very poor in contextual data, and will significantly enrich our understanding of Roman material and chromatic culture.