gems, antique jewelry, imitation, fake

Two pieces of jewellery that recently passed through the laboratory illustrate both the expanded scope of the Gem Lab’s recent work and the sophistication of modern forgers. The first item was a gold and pink topaz necklet in the Georgian style. Its basic design corresponds to that of the early nineteenth century, featuring the filigree ornamentation popular in Europe at the time, known as Canatille work due to its resemblance to the embroidered brocade on military uniforms. Contemporary documentation of the techniques used in such work exists, including that by P. Boué in his Traité d’Orfévrerie, Bijouterie et Joaillerie (Paris, 1832). A detail of the pendant from the necklet and a portion of the interwoven gold band are shown (1); out of respect for the owners of items examined in the Lab, only detailed fragments are illustrated. Although the necklet may initially appear to be antique, closer inspection quickly reveals several concerning features. Beyond the distinctly modern construction methods, the surface characteristics, gold composition, and style of gem cutting all indicate a recent origin. This necklet is not an isolated case; there was reportedly a wave of similar Georgian-style fakes and imitations a few years ago. Some of these were sold as authentic pieces, while others were marketed as reproductions. They continue to appear in shop displays and occasionally on internet sites. The place of their manufacture remains unknown—any information on this would be valuable.