Four Treasures Reference Database
Record No. 3019

Gem Trade Lab Notes: Synthetics and Modern" gems in period jewelry"

Journal Article
Hargett, D. (1988) Gem Trade Lab Notes: Synthetics and Modern" gems in period jewelry". Gems & Gemology, Vol. 24, No. 4, Winter, pp. 245—246.
ISBN/ISSN: 0016626X  |  Sinkankas/Born No.: NIS / NIB  |  RWHL
corundum, synthetic corundum.7, gems
Over the years, synthetics have been set in jewelry for a variety of reasons, People who could not afford natural stones could at least enjoy the beauty of the less costly synthetics. Syn-thetics or other simulants have been used to replace more valuable stones that were either lost or removed to use the cash value when needed. At one time, synthetics were even set into fine jewelry as a proud symbol of scientific progress. The fine platinum and diamond bracelet shown in figure 17, seen in our East Coast laboratory, was probab-ly made during the 1920s. It is set with flame-fusion synthetic rubies as well as with fine natural rubies with Burma characteristics. We do not know why synthetic and natural stones were mixed in this piece, but because of the ever-present possi-bility of mixed stones, it is always necessary to test all of the stones, even in an antique setting. Evidence of tampering with a setting is the most common indica-tion that a synthetic was used as a replacement stone. The stone shown in figure 18 was set in a lady's ring that also was submitted to our East Coast laboratory. Engraved in the shank of the ring is the date Octo-ber 15, 1922. Although it is possible that this date could have been in-scribed recently, it is not likely. As indicated by the reworked prong tip, as well as the flux inclusions shown in figure 18, a modern flux-grown synthetic ruby has been reset in this period ring.