corundum, ruby, sapphire, quality.10, crown jewels, gems

John Culme and Nicholas Rayner’s The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor is a lavishly illustrated historical and gemological account of the extraordinary jewelry collection assembled by Edward VIII, Duke of Windsor (1894–1972), and his wife Wallis Simpson (1896–1986), published in conjunction with Sotheby’s landmark auction of the collection in Geneva on 2–3 April 1987. Combining royal biography, jewelry history, detailed descriptions of individual objects, and contemporary auction results, the volume documents one of the most celebrated private jewelry collections of the twentieth century. The introductory chapters examine the Duke’s appreciation of fine gemstones and craftsmanship, influenced by his upbringing among the British royal collections, and the Duchess’s distinctive taste, which helped shape jewelry fashion from the 1930s through the 1960s. Particular attention is devoted to the couple’s relationships with Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, and other leading jewelers, including the designers Jeanne Toussaint and Renée Puissant. The collection contains exceptional examples of Art Deco and postwar jewelry, including important diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, pearls, and colored gemstones. Among its most celebrated pieces are Cartier’s ruby and diamond necklace inscribed “My Wallis from Her David,” the ruby and diamond “Hold Tight” bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, and the Duchess’s remarkable bracelet of nine gemstone-set crosses commemorating significant events in the couple’s relationship. Cartier’s famous jeweled animal creations include the flamingo brooch, fashioned from diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and citrines, and the panther jewels, which became enduring symbols of twentieth-century jewelry design. The emerald section includes the important Great Mogul emerald, acquired by the Duke in 1936, subsequently purchased at the auction by Laurence Graff for approximately US$2.13 million including premium. The diamond section documents the celebrated McLean diamond, purchased by the Windsors in 1949 and sold at the Geneva auction for approximately US$3.15 million including premium, together with important yellow diamonds acquired from Harry Winston. The book also discusses the Duchess’s innovative jewelry designs, including the transformable diamond zipper necklace created by Van Cleef & Arpels, and her preference for bold colored gemstones, sculptural goldwork, and unconventional settings. Individual entries provide information on designers, makers, dates, gemstones, carat weights where documented, inscriptions, provenance, and construction, often drawing upon manufacturers’ archives. Extensive color photography is complemented by historical portraits showing the Duchess wearing the jewels, while additional sections catalogue the Duke’s royal memorabilia, precious objects, hardstone seals, silver, and presentation pieces. The opening account of the Sotheby’s sale records the extraordinary international competition for the collection, which achieved approximately US$45 million, roughly seven times its pre-sale estimate, with proceeds benefiting the Pasteur Institute’s medical research. The publication includes detailed auction results in Swiss francs, pounds sterling, and US dollars, providing a valuable historical record of gemstone and jewelry valuations in 1987. For gemologists, jewelry historians, and collectors, the volume is particularly significant for its documentation of exceptional gemstones, innovative jewelry design, distinguished provenance, and the extraordinary premiums commanded by pieces associated with celebrated historical figures.